Monday, August 20, 2012

Adventures in Chile with Jorge Rivas

Entry 18.


After a four hour flight to Mexico City, I hopped in a cab to Zocalo Square, the only landmark I knew in DF. Only after passing police pickup trucks armed with mounted machine guns, did I finally get a sense of how dangerous Mexico is.
When I arrived in Mexico I was excited for my 14 hour layover; I would have plenty of time to see the city, and even go out of the city to see some ruins. It might have been the fact that I was exhausted and my back was killing me from sleeping on the airplane, but Mexico city was the first and so far only city I didn't like in my gap year. Everything was disgustingly dirty, despite the fact that there were hoards of "city cleaners" everywhere. Feral dogs roamed the city in the droves, and everything just felt depressing. Almost all the building were either falling down, or had already fell down. I returned to the airport after only 4 hours.

After arriving in Santiago, Chile I was promptly escorted to a desk where they informed me that because I was American I would have to pay an entry fee of $140. If would have been $0 if I hadn't left my Irish passport at home. I met Jorge and his girlfriend, dropped my bags off at his house and went to the country club.
The next day we did some last minute shopping, and headed down to Jorge's beach house in Santo Domingo. The next three days were relaxing ones filled with lots of delicious food, bike rides, and hanging out at the beach. Back in Santiago we met up with Hugo, Jorge's friend that would be accompanying us on our journey down south.

You many be wondering how I ended up in Chile instead of Costa Rica. A short backstory; on one of the rare days my Internet connection was working in San Jose, CR, I was talking to Jorge Rivas who told me he was going down south to Patagonia. Patagonia happened to be number one on my places I wanted to visit, so I told Jorge I was going to come with him, quit my job and bought my plane ticket.

For the first day we drove five hours south to Jorge's grandfather's farm. With plenty of daylight left we went for a hike through corn and soy fields, and attempted to catch cattle. Just before sunset, the "yeso" (horseman) showed up and I went for an amazing horseback ride though the golden corn fields just as the sun was setting below the distant mountains. I had ridden horses before, but always with tour companies that have trained their horses not too fast. But this horse was a ranch horse, and when he smelled the barn door, he broke out into a full out gallop. I pulled as hard as I could on the reins but he was having none of it so I hung out for dear life as I felt my hat fly off followed quickly by my sunglasses. Just before running into the house, the horse came to a sudden stop and I felt myself sliding off the saddle as I desperately hung on to the horse's neck. As I was falling, I kicked my feet out of the stirrups and managed to get the underneath me just in time. A graceful dismount.

The next 10 days we spent traveling from city to city, sleeping in camping sites along the way. In Europe I had thought we were traveling on a budget, rarely eating out and looking for the cheapest hostel. But in Chile, this was a whole new level; camping sites cost an average of $5 a person compared to $25 for hostels. My standard for a decent bathroom now only requires that it have a lid to the seat and not too much water on the ground to seep through your shoes. A hot shower is a plus, but don't expect it. If there is no shower, you go to a river and find a waterfall. It sounds amazing, but if the water is 40 degrees and by the time you get out you can't feel your feet, it's not so great. Meals were cut from 3 a day to barely one and a half. For brunch you have a little bit of bread with jam and then for dinner you cook up a huge feast, remembering how much you used to be able to eat when you were this hungry, but halfway through the meal you find yourself stuffed because your stomach has shrunk so much. By the time you go to bed your hungry again but when you wake up the hunger has mysteriously vanished.

At the beginning of trip, I wore all my clothes once or twice and then I put them separated them into "dirty" and "not so dirty" piles. After going through my "not so dirty" pile, I reinvestigated my dirt pile until everything became "wearable" again. The only requisite being that it didn't smell awful, and soon that was thrown out too. Since everything was so dirty, it soon didn't matter whether I changed clothes or not, so I would wake up and put on the same clothes as yesterday, often for 3, 4, 5 days in a row. Shoes became the most difficult to manage, it was often raining so they took days to dry if they got wet, and they inevitably did during hikes through creeks and waterfalls. Hikes often started with damp shoes only to end with soaking shoes.

Before I had left for Chile I had began to feel a little homesick. But homesick isn't the exactly the right word. After traveling for nearly 6 months, everything began to go numb. After visiting hundreds of town squares, monuments, markets, museums, and parks, I just didn't care anymore. Yeah that mountain is stunning, or this market is awesome, but it's nothing I didn't see 10 or 20 cities back. So after traveling to Pucon, Frutillar, and Puerto Varas, we finally arrived in Puerto Montt where I immediately looked for transportation routes to Torres del Paine. For an example of how remote Torres del Paine is and why it is often considered the edge of the world consider this: after driving 1000km south from Santiago to Puerto Montt, it's still another 2000km south to Torres del Paine. And to get there you have to take a 32 hour bus ride to from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas and then another 2 hour bus ride to Puerto Natales and from there a bus to Torres del Paine Park. Despite all my attempts to persuade my two companions, they did not want to venture further south than Puerto Montt. Without them I didn't have all the necessary gear to go hiking so I was stuck in the cities.

From Puerto Montt we headed further south to Cochemo and Rio Pueblo. The road, although in poor condition, was one of the most scenic and beautiful roads I've been on, with the view of the sea dotted with islands and long fjords extending almost into Argentina. We stayed in Cochemo for three days and got some good hikes in when it wasn't pouring rain. After Chochemo we headed to Rio Pueblo and found a camping place right next to the river with a stunning view of Volcan Hornopident. It would be probably be expensive, but worth it we thought. 12 bucks for the three of us. We took a hike along a road that lead deep into the Andes Mountains and while we were walking passed a house where a lady came running outside to say hi. We walked over to her and after talking for a while, she invited us inside to take a look at her homemade socks and hats. Five minutes later I walked out with a wool hat and Jorge with a pair of socks.

The next day we headed back up north and only after taking a ferry across the fjord did we think about where we actually wanted to end up that night. After driving for a while we chose Valdivia, a city about 5 hours away. When we got there we found out that it was the week of the dead and we were just in time to see the last 3 days of celebration. We found the only camping site in town for an astronomical $28 a night. We spent three days and nights there and on the last night we went into town to watch the fireworks and celebrations. We sat down on a hill where we thought the fireworks would be and after a three hour wait we heard the telltale booms and saw flashes of light but the fireworks were further down the river and everyone got up as the entire hill stampeded down to get a view of the fireworks.



Places traveled: Pucon, Frutillar, Puerto Varas, Puerto Mont, Cochemo, Rio Puelo, Valdivia

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